Introducing The Collar Bone
The new year is all about dysfunctional movement in hair. Styling is muddled down, just like the mint in our holiday drinks. A little bit of frizz is okay now, but let’s not get crazy. January is about falling out of manufactured style and into subtle beauty. We are taking classic techniques and dragging them, kicking and screaming, across the gravel--creating a proper mess in the wake.
As hair professionals, we know that this look isn't everyone’s cup o’ tea, but at the end of the day, we decide how the public sports their hair. We, as hair professionals, are deciding what is in and what is out. Let’s educate women how to wear their hair with a flattering muted obtrusiveness.
Let's clarify what mid-length [midi] hair really is. Repeat after me: “collarbone.” We need to start stressing to our guests the idea of length. One of the number one issues a cutting professional can have is a miscommunication of length with a client. Everyone has a different idea of how much two inches really is when it comes to hair. This year, we are emphasizing the collarbone. Why not shoulder length? The shoulders are an uncomfortable spot for hair to rest. Shoulders cause bending and separation in the hair that kills the silhouette! The collarbone is an important spot of the body for women. When trying to lose weight, some measure their success on being able to see this bone slowly start to expose itself. It has become a sexy area of the body, and January must be different--let’s enhance a different kind of sexiness. Hair finds an easy place to rest when cut around the collarbone. It helps hold shape and does not bend or separate the hair. Explain this to your clients; educate them to dismiss the concept of the “shoulder length” and embrace the new midi.
Creating muted obtrusiveness is simple and customizable. Simply separate the area into two main sections. The best way to do this is to part the hair from temple to temple. This gives you an upper section and a lower section. Simply put, the lower section is to be cut with a graduating technique or a “90 degree” method. This gives the bottom half of the cut a soft shag affect. The top section should be cut by pulling the hair straight up off of the head. I would call this a traditional layering technique. This removes weight from the top, so feel free to customize how much length is removed here. Removing more length creates more layering. Finish the cut by blending and texturizing the disconnection between the two sections. Maybe you want to leave it disconnected--it is totally up to you (and your client, of course).
Framing the face is a cutting technique of its own. When creating "The Hipster Midi," I did not want to frame the face. I find it too “pretty” and January is not about “pretty.” Feel free to add framing to this cut or stay true to its pure form.
Let's talk about fringe. We are bringing it back! This month is the beginning of a three-month fringe binge. Remember we are taking classic techniques and dragging them through the dirt. We are creating a fringe that leaves you feeling a little uneasy but slightly turned on. We all love the middle part, if and when you can pull it off. So, "The Hipster Midi" is combining the two. When cutting the fringe, keep the hair parted down the middle so you essentially have two sections of fringe to work with. Instead of cutting straight across, we want to cut out a triangular shape--meaning the middle part of the fringe is a bit shorter than the outside corners. We do this to create an acute separation in the fringe which allows the hair to move when walking or turning the head. We recommend eyebrow length or just a little below. Take liberties on deciding how long or short to take the fringe area with your guest. Creating this triangular affect can be done on any length.
When styling hair this month, do not use a prep product! Really focus on waving the hair in misplaced and inconsistent sections. Grab random pieces of different sizes and wand those sections in different directions. Leave some of the hair straight or natural to create a confusion of texture. When finishing, use a light texturizing spray and scrunch with hands. Get creative!
Subdued styling and arbitrary textures that make us all a little uncomfortable. We are getting rid of face framing and bringing back the childhood fear of fringe! Shoulder length is so 2014 and we have replaced it with the concept of the collarbone--a sexy measurement. We want deviant layering that shags out the shag. These ideas and techniques are what will create our January.